One of the biggest gripes I hear about Athens is that it’s dirty and ugly. I agree that, yes, Athens is a generally dirty city. It’s not particularly dirtier than cities like Paris or Rome, but those two cities have appealing architecture to draw the eye up from piles of trash and graffiti. Instead of the whimsical Haussmann-style buildings in Paris or the charming homes of Rome, Athens has brutal cement buildings that can feel imposing. There is not much artistic integrity in the city’s modern architecture compared to other major European hotspots, which can be a significant drawback for tourists.
Despite this, visitors who let the architecture’s rough nature shadow the warmth of an Athenian’s smile severely undervalue a city that has historically been through a lot yet still boasts a unique and inviting culture. To enjoy Athens is to savor the taste of tender souvlaki on a Friday night, flow with the opportunistic hum of a morning walk through Plaka, or gawk at the sight of ruins built over 3,000 years ago.
My husband and I decided to spend our New Year’s in Athens, and despite its flaws, I fell in love with it. We explored many cultural attractions with the comfort of mild weather, dined on exquisite food, and spent New Year’s Eve watching the world turn another year older in an ageless, ancient city.
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Arrival to Athens and First Impressions
My husband and I arrived in Athens a few days before New Year’s Eve. We always try to go somewhere exciting for the holiday, and we were stoked to ring in the new year in Greece’s capital. I have an affinity for Greek mythology and a pallet for Greek food, so I was absolutely sold on a New Year’s celebration in Athens.
Upon arrival at the trendy NEW Hotel, we immediately went to the rooftop lounge to catch the views. On the rooftop, we could see the Acropolis Hill, Mount Lycabettus, and the never-ending city skyline that sprawls so vast that it starts to grip the surrounding mountains. As we gazed upon the Parthenon gleaming like a beacon in the distance, it suddenly dawned on me how far in the future we are from when the Gods ruled. What would the original Athenians think of the modern world? What did they imagine the future would be like in 3,000 years? There was something mystical in looking over the modern skyline of a city that has been a cultural center for so long, and we spent that first night in humble awe.Â
Exploring the Ancient Ruins
That mysticism stuck with me throughout the trip as we sauntered through ancient sites that abundantly dot the city. Zeus’ Temple and Hadrian’s Library were places I didn’t even know existed until our arrival, and we were pleasantly surprised to turn a corner and be greeted by the ruins of domineering columns and crumbling walls.Â
My favorite of these sites was the Ancient Agora, which included the Temple of Hephaestus. He was the God of artisans, blacksmiths, carpentry, and other forging methods, so his temple’s location in the ancient market was fitting. As one of the best-preserved temples in Greece, it was easy to envision myself in the bustle of an ancient market, perhaps on my way to purchase food or visit God’s temple.
The main event, of course, was Acropolis Hill. The Parthenon that crowns the hill resembles not only the ancient Athenians’ devotion to their gods but also Greek resilience through the ages. As I climbed higher up the mountain in the early morning coolness, I felt like I was leaving the bustle of modern life below. Gazing upon the remains of Herodes Atticus theater, climbing through the fortified walls of the Propylaea, marveling at the elegant maiden’s statues of the Erechtheum, and basking in the power of the Parthenon was an inspiration. The juxtaposition of these sites with the vast metropolis of modern Athens in the background was again a humbling reminder of how much of a blip our lives are in the timeline of civilization. Â
Afterward, we checked out the Acropolis Museum, which houses many original statues and artifacts from the Acropolis. We spent about an hour perusing the relics and learning more about the Parthenon. In its long history, this site and the city have undergone many power transfers, sieges, and restoration. This museum was a fantastic addition to seeing the structure in person.
The Food
Athens, however, can’t only be praised for its history when it has a plethora of fantastic food to dive into. In Plaka, where we stayed, hundreds of breezy cafes line the street and offer many wonderful foods. Despite indulging in some of the local fare like souvlaki, dolmades, and Greek salad at restaurants like Ella Greek Cooking, we also took a fantastic walking tour that gave us a deeper connection to the local cuisine.Â
On this tour, we tried traditional food at a small restaurant packed with locals, discovered the unique brewing methods of Greek coffee, winded our way through an intense meat market, tried gyros, and spent some time with a local guide who answered any questions that came to mind about the city and its people. While most countries have fantastic dishes to rave about, I have a soft spot for Greek cuisine and felt pure bliss being able to indulge in the delicious food of this country.
*Refer to my 6 MUST-TRY GREEK RESTAURANTS IN PLAKA, ATHENS post and my ATHENS GUIDED FOOD TOUR REVIEW for more details and to book reservations*
New Year’s Eve in Athens
As our days in Athens passed in bright flavors and ancient awe, New Year’s Eve was suddenly upon us. We started the evening at a wine bar called the Drunky Goat, which offered extensive and detailed wine tastings that accommodated our preferences. As a white wine drinker, I loved the option to taste only white wines and learn more about them. In my experience, Greek wines are more obscure than those in other Mediterranean countries like Spain and Italy, so I wasn’t sure what to expect from them. The wines were generally crisp and citrusy, and I enjoyed them. The Malagouizia wine was my favorite, so if I find more shops selling Greek wine, I will undoubtedly watch for it.
Feeling tipsy and hungry after our tasting, it was time for dinner reservations at ANETON, a Michelin-guided, fine-dining restaurant. For the holiday, they offered a seven-course menu with a choice of lamb or fish as the entrée. As expected, the food was a delightful mix of modern and traditional Greek cuisine, and the ambiance felt like a luxury experience.
Shortly before midnight, with our stomachs full and hearts soaring, we headed to our hotel’s rooftop to catch the fireworks. At midnight, fireworks blasted joy throughout the city skyline, filling us with optimism and happiness for the new year ahead. Â
Final Thoughts
Athens is a city that I will hold dear to my heart and one that I would certainly like to visit again. It is a city with something new to find on every shop corner. You might see an old Greek artist with cats meowing at her feet who will sign you a sweet note on the back of a painting. Most of the waiters are kind and give fantastic service. When sitting down at a café, you might find a furry feline friend napping carefree in the seat next to you, unbothered and unaware that they are living in one of the most historically significant cities in the world.
Despite some more negative aspects, like the grime, I could see the gold underneath it all and think others could do the same if they looked beyond the superficial.
