A Weekend in Obertraun, Austria – A Memoir

On my first day of second grade, a girl was sitting across from me, and I got into an argument with her over how the desks should be aligned. I thought she was rude and arrogant. That night, I vehemently complained about her to my mom, unaware that we would become best friends by the end of the week. After that first day, our proximity forced us to get to know each other. I learned that her arrogance was actually fiery confidence and that my perception of her rudeness was actually a reflection of myself. At this age, I could be a bit bossy, and her resilience to stand up for herself and not bend to my will was what truly annoyed me. Her friendship taught me that misguided first impressions can lead to soulful connections that force us to challenge ourselves and look inward. My weekend spent in Obertraun, Austria reminded me of this important lesson, and because of that, it became one of my most memorable travel destinations in 2023.

Obertraun is an obscure lakeside town in the Austrian Alps with a population of fewer than 800 people. While it contains the captivating beauty expected from an alpine town, it’s overshadowed by the famed village of Hallstatt, located across the lake. Hallstatt is known to receive up to 10,000 visitors a day despite its small size, so I chose to stay in Obertraun because I wanted quick access to Hallstatt while also being allowed to bask in the mountainous serenity of the Alps without many tourists. However, by the end of our first gloomy afternoon spent in Obertraun, I began to doubt my decision.

While our room boasted fantastic views, the amenities that I typically expect from a hotel needed improvement, and I was disappointed at the room’s simplicity, considering that it was expensive. The lakeside restaurant we chose to dine in for lunch introduced me to the rudest waiter I had ever encountered, making me feel small and unwelcome. Later, we were quickly rushed out of the town’s only grocery store because they closed at exactly 7:15, and apparently, not a minute later. And, for dinner, our only option was to dine in an Italian restaurant with a two-lane bowling alley, where I was served an Aperol Spritz with exactly one ice cube. As I watched the ice bob pathetically in my glass as rain tapped the restaurant’s window, I wondered if staying in Obertraun was a mistake. While I did want a more remote experience, I still thought that Obertraun would cater a little more to my travel fantasies. Did I waste my money to visit a place that doesn’t even want me here? Why does it feel like nothing is going my way?

However, the following day, my outlook began to look up. We hopped onto a longboat taxi that glided quietly across the lake to the town of Hallstatt by its small electric motor, leaving Obertraun behind us. The water was like a mirror, reflecting the dramatic, pine-laced mountains surrounding us. The clouds crowned the steel tips of their ridges, and even though it was late June, the weather was chilly, and the mountains were still dusted with snow. While I didn’t prepare for the chill that danced on our cheeks, I was glad for it since we would be spending a lot of time walking, and I would much rather be a little cold than too hot.

The natural scenery of the mountains was tranquil, and any gloom I felt yesterday was whisked away by the charming scene of Hallstatt materializing into view. The wooden homes seemed as if they were stacked on top of one another. Flowers in bright hues burst from boxes on the home’s porches, contrasting against the darkened wood. Below the cozy homes, small boathouses and cafes lined the lake and were monitored by plump swans that patrolled the water’s edge. It was a scene pulled straight from a fairy tale.

The town is small, but there were many narrow streets and alleyways to stroll down. After starting the morning with some mulled wine, we began our walk to see what we could find. Since the town is built on a mountainside, we zig-zagged the cozy streets, passing quaint restaurants, bars, and shops along the way. As we climbed up, we began to capture lovely views of the cozy rooftops and the majestic lake. We eventually wound up at a small church that crowned the town, where even the cemetery boasted eternal charm.

We had lunch along the lake after checking out a few shops in the main town square. The patio was adorned with many potted plants, and we gazed over the lake as swans glided around and tourists laughed on small paddle boats. The sun began peering out from behind the clouds, and my optimism was clearing up significantly.

On our return to Obertraun, the longboat had been taken over by a friendly, local man wearing a bright blue company t-shirt, lederhosen, and a tyrolean (a traditional German hat similar to a fedora). He wore no shoes and casually kicked up his feet to relax as he talked about the area and answered questions. After being treated rudely by our waiter the previous day, I was so glad to speak to a local who didn’t seem like my existence was a burden. That night, we dined at the Italian restaurant again, and since I knew not to order a drink with ice, I ordered a crisp white wine that was delicious and enjoyed my pasta dish.

The following morning allowed us to embrace summer again. I was ecstatic because we would finally be able to do a bucket list item of mine – hiking in the Alps. We again took the longboat taxi across the lake to Hallstatt, where we walked away from the town center and slipped onto a quiet, residential street leading us to the trail. The walk through the neighborhood alone was a treat. My husband and I admired all of the properties, taking note of the lush gardens and architectural styles for our future dream home. The trail became more desolate as we continued, and we were soon flanking a peaceful river with nothing surrounding us but pine trees and walls of mountains. Since it was early, the trail was utterly desolate of other people, and we chatted excitedly as we trotted onward.

Slowly, the river’s rushing became more rapid until we finally took a dramatically steep climb to a waterfall gushing out of a cliff face as if its sheer power blasted a path right through the rock. We marveled at its beauty for quite some time until other hikers crowded the area. Spending a few hours enjoying the remote wilderness of the Alps was just as rejuvenating as I hoped it would be.

Upon our return to Obertraun that afternoon, we saw that the town was much more alive than it had been the past couple of days. The grassy lakeside park was dotted with sunbathers, and adults and children alike were squealing with surprise as they leaped into the frigid lake. The atmosphere was joyful. We again dined at the lakeside restaurant from the first day, where the evil waitress was working again. However, her entire demeanor seemed to have changed. When she dropped off the bill, she told me to have a nice day in a sincere, cheerful tone. The summer sun thawed out more than just the cold weather for both her and me.

After a refueling lunch, it was our turn to plunge into the icy lake. I must say with utmost elegance that it was, indeed, cold as shit. As soon as I plummeted into the dark depths, I felt a surge of child-like joy and couldn’t stop myself from shouting in delight. I will never forget the euphoric dream of treading in an alpine lake nested in mountains of steel, where the afternoon summer sky basked the valley surrounding me in an ethereal glow.

Obertraun is not a town bent to the will of my overzealous expectations as a tourist, which forced me to look inward. I was quickly humbled to either adapt and enjoy it for its unyielding solidity or reject it and miss out on its beauty. Because I wasn’t immediately dazzled by Obertraun, it gave me a more emotionally raw experience and made my love for my time here blossom even brighter.