The fumes from a hazy coffee shop in Amsterdam tickled my mind as I casually strolled through the notorious red-light district. After a wholesome day of meandering along the serene canals, dodging waves of whirling bikes, and tasting rich cuisine in cozy restaurants, the stark glow of neon signs advertising sex shows and windows filled with prostitutes was a sharp but not unpleasant contrast. While I probably wouldn’t wander the red-light district in the wee hours of the night, I felt comfortable being in an area where people could work and consume safely. As I walked freely among the hundreds of people satiating their curiosity, I realized the Netherlands could be an example of how more comfortable and communal environments are created by allowing people to reasonably indulge in their vices. Throughout my weekend in Amsterdam trying new foods, shopping at local boutiques, visiting museums, and inhaling the joyous spring breeze that wound through the city’s canals, I felt a sense of security that I don’t always feel in other cities. I left Amsterdam with it ranking among my favorite European cities, having deeply enjoyed its atmosphere and culture.
After arriving in Amsterdam with my sister and her fiancé from an overnight stay in Holland to visit the tulip fields, our first planned activity was a food tour. I always advise food tours because they force you to step out of your comfort zone and try foods you might not usually order. I don’t think I would step near herring or understand a menu description of bitterballen (Dutch croquette) on my own accord. I found poffertjes (mini pancakes doused in butter and powdered sugar… uh, yes, please?) just as delightful a dessert as the country’s signature stroopwafels. Beyond the flavors of the local haunts, our guide gave us some great insights into the city itself. Teaching us how to navigate the onslaught of bikes that dominate the roads without getting hit by one was valuable information, because I personally like avoiding grave injuries. Thanks to his advice, we were soon steering the city streets with the locals’ confidence.
After the food tour, our guide directed me to his favorite coffee shop. The first night in a new city is always electric, but when you add a little weed and alcohol into the mix, that giddiness reaches new elevations. I still giggle when I think about walking past a Madame Tussauds Museum and glancing in the window to see a wax figure of Ed Sheeran staring uncannily into my soul, or the slight anxiety I felt when a potato-sized yorkie refused to break eye contact with me. I was convinced it knew I was up to something. We tittered with jokes all the way into the heart of the red-light district, named after the slew of red signs glowing alluringly above windows where prostitutes blow kisses and show their assets to potential clients. We didn’t stay long, but seeing this notorious part of the city was an interesting “travel checklist.” Overall, it felt controlled and safe. If you want to get into that sort of thing, it seems like a good enough place to do so. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately?), all I have to show for it is this blurry picture.
The second day, I woke up a little groggy, but nothing a little breakfast and some caffeine couldn’t fix. The morning was free from plans, so we spent a few hours popping into concept stores and fashionable boutiques. The fashion in Amsterdam resonates with my dreamy Pinterest boards and me. It’s exemplified by soft colors paired with playful, tailored silhouettes. I even found a glasses store that matched this aesthetic and ordered a pair. New glasses were not what I expected to take home as a souvenir from Amsterdam, but now I can thank the city for the gift of sight.
After a relaxing lunch in the sun, we went on a canal cruise with unlimited wine and views. The cruise was a fantastic way to rest our feet and soak up Amsterdam’s unique architecture. However, we restrained ourselves from overindulging because our next stop was the Anne Frank House. We wanted to be in a decent state of mind to absorb the heavy material properly. The experience was a somber reminder of WWII and the Holocaust’s dark past. Even though I had read her diary in 8th grade, I reread part of it before the trip to make the experience more immersive by bridging that emotional connection. We left the museum heartbroken and angry, but I think taking time to educate oneself with challenging historical subjects is the best way we can honor the victims. As they say, those who don’t know history are doomed to repeat it.
Afterward, a delicious dinner at Box Sociaal, a restaurant serving up stroopwafel espresso martinis and a fusion of modernized dishes, was a great way to top off a fulfilling day of culture. We started with creamy hummus and crispy halloumi fries, followed by an excellent glass of local wine and a tender flat-iron steak. Even though our stomachs were full, we left the restaurant lighter than when we entered it. We slowly returned to our hotel, veering onto residential streets to admire the architecture, pausing to rest along the canals in deep conversation. As the dancing stars reflected on the quiet water, we couldn’t stop gushing over the city’s beauty and all we had learned.
Our last notable stop was at the Van Gogh Museum the following morning. Van Gogh was the first artist I ever studied. Like millions worldwide, my 8-year-old mind was captivated by his swirling compositions and slightly gruesome personal history. While I have seen much of his work in museums across Europe, I had yet to visit an institution dedicated to him and his early works. Even though I was disappointed to learn that one of my favorite works, “Skull of a Skeleton with Burning Cigarette,” was on loan, I still managed to get a fabulous tote bag featuring it, and I loved viewing his almond blossoms, landscapes, and personal portraits.
Despite Amsterdam’s reputation for its lax laws regarding drugs and prostitution, I found it to be clean, upbeat, and joyful. While we did get lucky with some exceptional weather, the people here seemed genuinely happy, and the communal atmosphere made me feel safe and welcome. Two nights in Amsterdam were not enough for me. It is a city I would jump in line to return to, and perhaps, one day, I will.
